Log of Nokomis
Circumnavigation of Vancouver Island. May-June
By Mark Leese
Skipper Derek Pritchard.
Crew.Mark Leese. Pat Pritchard. Richard Robbins
I joined Pat
and Derek at their home on Whidbey Island a few days before we set off on our
adventure so I could assist in the storage and cleaning of NOKOMIS. This proved to be a happy time as the weather
was good and I was able to enjoy the hospitality of Pat and Derek’s family and
friends on the island.
After
staying at Pat and Derek’s home for three nights and enjoying their excellent
cooking, I met up with fellow crew member, Dick Robbins and his wife, Marjike
on board “Nokomis” the night before we set off.
I knew Dick crewed with Derek in the Pelican races and we had enjoyed
their company previously at Pat and Derek's home. We enjoyed a drink or two before Marijke left
us to sort out our nesting arrangements for our forthcoming voyage.
May 20th Lagoon Point to Sidney Spit 55 miles Day
1
Dick and I
emerged from our respective sleeping berths at 0630 while Derek and Pat
appeared 0715. Pat stowed the last
minute fresh food in the fridge to her liking, so we were assured of plenty of
fine food for the voyage, - we weren't so sure about the booze especially as
Dick brought a bottle of sherry on board.
0800 we
departed the berth and motored out over the sill, watched and waved at by a
friendly group of South Whidbey Island Yacht Club members. We had to motor for the first hour but then
the wind picked up, so we set the No. 1 genoa and main. Unfortunately, while doing this, one of the
genoa sheets whipped back and cracked the starboard window of the dodger, - not
a great start to the voyage. After Port
Townsend the wind settled down and we had a great 7 hour sail across the Juan
de Fuca Strait. The breeze died later as
we past the sail training vessel “Pacific Adventure”, so we motored the last
part into Sidney Spit anchorage.
May 21st Sidney Spit - Sidney Marina – Pirates
Cove 38 miles Day 2
Woke early
and by 0900 we weighed anchor and motored into Sidney Marina to check in with
the Canadian Customs and Immigration.
This was simply and quickly accomplished by phone as their policy seemed
to have changed from tax collection to drug detection. The marina management were not so
accommodating as they refused to let us stay a few hours to do some shopping,
so Derek told them to “stick it” and we set off for Pirates Cove.
We were soon
sailing with a south easterly breeze before motoring through Active Pass at
1230 to seek fresh wind in the Georgia Strait.
Dick and I enjoyed a pleasant sail along Galiano Island while Derek did
a deckhead survey, but with a dying breeze we ducked back through the Porlier
Pass at 1530. and entered The Trincomalee Channel as we had determined that we
could not reach Nanaimo in the remaining daylight. Thanks to the iron donkey we reached Pirates
Cove at 1800 and dropped the hook with quite a few other vessels in this
beautiful bay. We then went ashore and
had a very pleasant walk before a late supper of Marijke's Dutch butter
cake
May 22nd Pirates Cove to Nanaimo 11miles Day
3 We set off at 0800 to catch a
favourable current through Dodd Narrows, whichz we transited at 0851 then
turned to port for the Port of Nanaimo.
There the Wharfingers Office were very friendly and gave us a free berth
for four hours and allowed us to log on to their WiFi which enabled us to get
in touch with our wives. Derek and I
then shopped at a nearby store for fresh produce which included Smithwick's
real ale and a pork pie. I then had a
shower ashore prior to moving to the fuel dock to top up with diesel and fresh
water. Having achieved this, plus an ice
cream cone on the way, we motored over to Newcastle Island and anchored between
the Park and the Pub in company with quite a few other boats. There were plans to walk on the island but
there was light rain so we zizzed instead.
In the evening we rowed over to the Dinghy Dock Pub and enjoyed their
draft beer and a light meal.
May 23rd Newcastle Island to Lasqueti Island 27 miles Day
4
It rained
most of the night but stopped soon after we got up. So after a breakfast of juice and cereal we
weighed anchor and motored out of Nanaimo Bay.
As there were no torpedo testing in the Whisky Xray area we were able to
set course directly for Jeddidiah after clearing the Finger Islands. A SE breeze freshened during the morning so
we rolled out the genoa and cut the engine for the last 10 miles. By 1200 we entered Bull Passage and
thereafter Deep Cove where we tried in vain to anchor and stern tie to the
rock. With only three boats there this
should not have been a problem but even with laying a kedge anchor and
assistance from the other boaters we had to give up because of the fresh breeze
blowing right down the cove. So we
motored round to Tucker Bay on Lasqueti
Island and enjoyed a meal of BBQ chicken, beans, mushrooms and spuds
before turning in at 2130.
May 24th
Lasqueti Island to Comox 27 miles Day
5
Dick and I
had a disturbed night due the vessel rocking and rolling as the tide turned
while Derek, in his stateroom, slept soundly.
A breakfast of fried eggs and bacon, plus fried bread, cooked by Dick
soon revived our spirits and we set of for Comox at 1000Due to very light winds
we had to motor all the way which didn't
make Derek too happy, but he sorted out some of his computer problems en route
while the engine was charging the battery.
On arrival at Comox 1515 we found the Wharfinger's Office closed for the
day, but then it was Saturday. No one
knew the WiFi password so we walked up the road and found a friendly cafe. We took the opportunity to buy some more
Smithwicks beer (a subsidiary of Guiness) , and I bought some more post cards
and stamps at C$2.50 each! We had a
pleasant evening alongside, meatballs and noodles together with a glass or two
of wine.
Day 25th
Comox to Village Bay 36 miles Day 6
Woke up to
grey skies and light drizzle with most residents seemingly still in bed. The local and only supermarket didn't open
until 1100 so time was taken by Dick to have a shower, Derek to sort out his
computer programs and I bought some more ice (for the beers) after phoning
Sandy and enjoying a spinach omelet at another WiFi restaurant.At 1040 we motored
out of the public dock being careful to keep to the buoyed channel. Once clear of the headland we set the genoa
in a ESE 10 knot breeze. Engine off and sailed all day running before the wind
at 6 knots. We arrived in Village Bay at
1730 and anchored close to and behind asmall island by which time it was
raining. So were soon relaxing with the
heater on and drinks in hand. I cooked a
sumptuous meal of baked beans, spuds (from a packet) fried eggs and toast!
May 26th Village Bay to Octopus Islands 8 miles Day 7
After
breakfast we rowed ashore and picked as many oysters as we needed off the
beach. A stream from a lake ran into the
bay making the many hundreds of oysters fresh and very tasty. Derek and I took the opportunity to go skinny
dipping in a pool formed by the stream which was very refreshing, - and
cleansing!
After lunch
we set off for the Octopus Islands under motor as there was very little
breeze. On arrival at Beazley Rapids we
found the adverse current (8 knots) too strong so decided to hang around until
the current had lessened allowing us to motor through. At 1530 we managed to make the passage and
entered the Octopus Islands and hour later where we anchored. Like Village Bay, we were the only
vessel. As we had some heavy rain
showers we rigged Pat's excellent canvass canopy and took turns between the
showers to row the dinghy around the beautiful islands. British bangers, baked beans and spuds went
down well before we turned in.
May 27th In Octopus Islands Day
8
We took
Pat's canopy down after breakfast since it was cloudy but dry on this lay
day. After breakfast Derek and I had a
heated discussion about the use of hand held GPS units that Dick and I had
brought with us. I explained that they
were supplementary to his computer and charts but Derek seemed to think we were
questioning his navigation. This problem
was resolved by Derek sharing the operation of his laptop computer, on which all
the electronic charts were stored, with Dick and I and by the afternoon we had
become firm friends again. So while Dick
and Derek went for a long row around the islands, I cleaned and polished the
hull as best I could. Happy hour that
evening was followed by Derek baking some of the oysters with cheese and we
turned in early ready for an 0700
departure the next morning. The
remainder of the oysters were placed in the oyster hotel dropped over the stern
which we had to remember to hoist on board before we departed for the day.
May 28th Octopus Island to Port Neville 40 miles Day
9
Up early and
weighed anchor before 0700. Rather than
go through Hole in the Wall, which would have meant that traversing several
rapids that would likely cause delays, we decided to take the shorter course
that would take us into the more open Johnstone Strait. All went well throughout the morning as we
had favourable currents of up to 6 knots and sheltered waters, but once in the
Johnstone Strait we encountered steep seas caused by a NW wind of 20 knots plus
and a 4-5 knot adverse current. Matters
turned worse when the tide turned, so much so that when we approached the light
beacon on the outer end of Earl Ledge we were making no progress towards our destination. We turned inside the ledge and tried motoring
over it further inshore and out of the current.
However, there was insufficient water and we ran aground briefly on the
ledge. We then crossed over to the other
side of the strait and made slow headway under motor and furled genoa, eventually
making Port Neville that lay in a short inlet off the exposed Johnstone
Strait. We were all cold and wet so
dinner of Oysters Rockefeller, courtesy of Dick were very welcome.
May 29th Port Neville to Port McNeill 41 miles Day
10
We were up
again at 0600 expecting to be off straight away for another long day, but after
listening to the weather forecast of NW winds 15-20 knots building to 30 knots,
Derek decided that we should stay in Port Neville for the day. As it happened the weather improved
throughout the day, but since we were berthed up the inlet we had no way of
knowing what the conditions were like in the strait. We spent the afternoon walking round the
abandoned buildings that once housed the oldest Post Office in British
Columbia, now looked after by a caretaker, before deciding to set off after
dinner when the current would be favourabe for a night passage to Port
McNeill. So at 2040 we set off and
motored up a relatively calm Johnstone Strait.
We set watches at 2200 with Dick and I taking the first watch just as we
passed a southbound cruise ship outlined in the setting sun.
May 30th en route to Port McNeill Day
11
Derek came
on watch at midnight as we motored up a quiet Johnstone Strait and decided to stay on until we reached Port
McNeill at 0330. Dick and I turned to
and assisted with the berthing in the glow of the port and marina lights. Then we all went to bed. At 0830 I walked up to the very friendly Port
Management Office to check in and to obtain a more permanent berth for the next
twenty four hours. After Dick had discovered where the laundrette was we did
all our laundry there and then met Derek for lunch. Shopping was next on the list for Derek and I
while Dick had his beard trimmed. In the
afternoon we motored around to the fuel dock and filled our diesel and fresh
water tank, as well as restocking the fridge with blocks of ice. Showers were taken by all so we felt fresh
and clean again so we celebrated by having a meal at the nearby local Gus Bar
and Grill Pub.
May 31st
Port McNeill to Port Hardy 33 miles Day
12
We topped up
the LP gas tank and “cleaned ship”
before thanking the girls in the port office for their friendly hospitality, -
we all thought Port McNeill a very gear place to celebrate my birthday and I
appreciated the cards that Sandy, Dick, as well as Pat and Derek gave me. At 1200 we motored out of the bay across to
Sointula Island where where Dick was keen to visit the old Finish village. So he and I walked a very pleasant 2
kilometers talking to friendly inhabitants along the way. We visited the small museum and bought some
stores in the original store, - ending up by getting a ride back to the boat.
We departed
at 1400 assuming that Port Hardy was only 4 miles away (!) when it turned out
to be 33 miles. With a fair N'ly breeze
blowing we set the genoa and the
mainsail with a double reef in it, until the wind started dying at 1700. So on with the motor again and full main we
bucked an increasing adverse tide and head wind
until we could finally turn into Hardy Bay at 2100. We went alongside the first available berth
at a private marina at 2230, - tired but thankful to be in at last.
So after
soup and drinks to celebrate my birthday we were soon in our bunks.
June 1st in Port Hardy Day 13
After a late
start and breakfast of eggs and bacon thanks to Derek, I registerd at the
marina office. $1.10 per foot we thought
was too much but got away with paying for one night only. We all ambled into the town about 0.5 miles
away, meeting the local pan handlers along the way. The town though friendly enough was not as
pleasant as Port McNeill despite some effort to spruce it up. We had coffee that had WiFi facilities and
did some shopping before heading back to the boat. Dick had another shower and later we had
BBQ'd pork chops, yams and carrots for dinner washed down with gin and tonics
and wine. We were early to bed as we
planned to leave at 0500 for Hope Island to take advantage of an ebb tide.
June 2nd Port Hardy to Bull Harbour 24 miles Day 14
We departed
as scheduled at 0500 but had to motor the whole way to Hope Island because of
the light wind right on the nose. It was
quite cold so we took turns to keep a lookout on deck. We arrived in Bull Harbor which seemed well
sheltered at 1100. We were cold but
happy and moored alongside the deserted and
the rather decrepit dock that according to the notice was the property of the
Tlatlasikwala First Nation. Two young
lads showed up not long afterwards and requested payment for the use of the
dock, so I gave them $20, - no receipt issued!
They advised that they were caretakers and that nobody lived now in Bull
Harbor all had done a bunk and now lived in Port Hardy. Not surprisingly there was no internet
facilities here but when we walked to the head of the bay in the afternoon we
were surprised at the well built dwellings and infrastructure that was in
place. Clearly there had been a
community living here until recently, but now there were only wolves around now
full time, - so we were informed. Roller
Bay on the north side was very picturesque with crashing waves and many logs
that presumably had over time broken free from log rafts. A large Beneteau moored
alongside the dock in the afternoon with a rather unhappy crew as the owner
apparently had not explained to them that he planned to circumnavigate
Vancouver Island in just two weeks.
June 3rd Bull Harbour to Sea Otter Cove 18 miles Day
15
Woke up at
0630 to the sound of the 53 ft
Beneteau's bow thruster as they departed the dock. We left after breakfast at 0745 and headed
out of the bay having made radio contact with the “Lucia e Luca” who informed
us that the seas over the Nahwilli Bar were quite manageable. When we came onto the bar though we
encountered heavy seas and swell, - a different prospective probably due to the
smaller size of “Nokomis” and lower engine power. For 40 minutes we punched through the rough
seas with a small jib set and the motor doing a sterling job, - the speed
varying between 2 and 5 knots. Dick
unfortunately felt seasick almost immediately so stayed warm and dry down below
during the passage.
Once over the bar we paid off for Cape Scott with the wind and swell now on our starboard beam making a pretty uncomfortable but invigorating passage. At 1100 we rounded Cape Scott and with the wind and sea now on our quarter we were able to cut the engine until we entered Sea Otter Cove at 1200. The bay was shallow and not very sheltered as the wind whipped down the bay. While trying to find a suitable anchorage we went gently aground on a mud bank, but easily backed off. We finally dropped the hook at 1342 but shortly thereafter we were advised by two guys in a dinghy who were moored in another part of the bay to move “Nokomis” to deeper water. It turned out that they were missionaries on board the “Coastal Messenger” who kept contact with the lighthouse keepers up and down the coast.
Once over the bar we paid off for Cape Scott with the wind and swell now on our starboard beam making a pretty uncomfortable but invigorating passage. At 1100 we rounded Cape Scott and with the wind and sea now on our quarter we were able to cut the engine until we entered Sea Otter Cove at 1200. The bay was shallow and not very sheltered as the wind whipped down the bay. While trying to find a suitable anchorage we went gently aground on a mud bank, but easily backed off. We finally dropped the hook at 1342 but shortly thereafter we were advised by two guys in a dinghy who were moored in another part of the bay to move “Nokomis” to deeper water. It turned out that they were missionaries on board the “Coastal Messenger” who kept contact with the lighthouse keepers up and down the coast.
June 4th Sea Otter Cove to Winter Harbour 23 miles Day
16
We departed
at 1000 after wishing “Coastal Messenger” Bon Voyage and motored out of the
south channel. Once clear we set the
sails and had a very pleasant down wind sail to the entrance of Quatsino
Sound. We passed the fine lighthouse
marking the entrance at 1342 and proceeded to tack up Forward Inlet until we
entered Winter Harbour at 1518. With no
one around to direct us to a berth we went alongside the first convenient dock,
only to discover that it was privately owned and had no access to the
shore. With nobody to chase us off Dick
and I launched the dinghy to row to the Public Dock but we very soon discovered
that the bung was missing necessitating us to row quickly back to our
dock. Derek did a great job in
fashioning a new bung and we set off again to see what Winter Harbour had to
offer. We met two of the 17 permanent
residents who were very friendly and we were able to phone our wives from the
local store. We dined on oysters and
rice for dinner and turned in, thankful to have reached our “mid point” where
Dick would be leaving us and Derek's wife, Pat would be joining.
June 5th
Winter Cove to Browning Inlet 3 miles Day 17
Since Pat
and Dick's wife, Mirijke were not due until June 7th we decided to
visit nearby Browning Inlet, so departed at 1000 before any irate owner of the
dock came by. We sailed out of Winter
Harbour under the genoa but this was furled as we entered the narrow Browning
Inlet and we motored up near to the head of the inlet while keeping a sharp
lookout for the varying depth of water.
We anchored in 15 ft while the wind blew down the inlet at 15 knots and
higher in gusts. The three of us set off
in the dinghy under motor to explore further up the bay to see if we could spot
any bears, but due to the shallow water Derek dropped Dick and me off while he
returned to “Nokomis” to collect the dinghy anchor. So the two of us walked along the foreshore
until the thick sticky mud allowed to walk no more. It literally sucked the sandals off our feet
making it difficult to locate them again and we had to support each other from
falling over which would have been catastrophic. We found slightly firmer ground by the time Derek
returned to pick us up, but Dick and Mark by this time had done with
exploring and we returned to “Nokomis”
to recover. Derek however, decided he
needed to explore a different area to seek out a trail and look for bears, but
eventually returned with just a large junk of bear poop. We had steak, baked beans and mashed potatoes
for dinner during which we agreed that
Browning Inlet was not such a wonderful place that the cruising guides would
have us believe.
June 6th
Browning Inlet to Winter Harbor 3 miles Day 18
Before setting
off Derek ascended the mast to check out the wind instruments as they seemed to
be under reading, plus generally checking the rigging and setting up the
spinnaker halyards should we need them.
Galley and other general house cleaning was undertaken prior to Pat's
arrival, and then we motored back to Winter Harbour, - this time berthing at
the private marina. Dick and I wondered
ashore and met June the Post Mistress
who had the best job in the district as she only opened three afternoons a
week. We also discovered that there was
no mail box so we were left wondering how people posted their mail. Later all three of us walked along the 0.5
mile wooden board walk that we were informed was maintained by the Canadian
Highway Authorities since it was originally the only “highway” when built. Derek tried in vain to photograph three
eagles that were circling close by, but eventually we returned to the only
store in town and bought rather expensive pork chops, potatoes and carrots for
our supper.
June 7th
In Winter Harbour Day
19
Set to after
a breakfast of sausages, eggs and toast to clean ship before the arrival of Pat
and Marijke. All was accomplished by
1200 and they arrived at 1315, plus an excited Echo. The stores they brought with them were loaded
amid plenty of stories and catching up of news, while Echo jumped up in the air
on seeing a sea otter close by. Another
yacht came in during the afternoon with one of their crew members needing to
return to Vancouver City as quickly as possible since his mother had
unfortunately just died. Dick and
Marijke offered to give him a lift in the morning to Port Hardy so he could fly
from the airport there. We looked around
the store again where Dick and I bought polo shirts on sale for $10 and I
managed to speak to Sandy using the store's phone thanks to Sharron wife of the
owner who was very friendly and kind to us.
We had a very pleasant evening on board, dining on Merijke's pork pie
that she had brought with her, before turning in quite early. Derek and I concluded that Winter Harbour
was an okay place, - it kinda grew on us.
June 8th
Winter Harbour to Klaskino
Anchorage 16 miles Day 20
All up at
0700 to bid farewell to Dick and Mirijke, plus their passenger, Mike. Light rain and mist hung around so they were
swiftly on their way along the gravel road to Port Hardy. We departed at 0845 with Pat's canvas canopy
rigged, but soon had to take it down once we left the shelter of the
harbour. We motored out of Quatsino Sound
in light winds and moderate swell until we were able to turn into Klaskino
Inlet where we had some difficulty finding a suitable anchorage as the first
recommended area was either too deep or too shallow and no waterfall as advised
in the guide book. Eventually we found a
very sheltered spot behind Anchorage Island.
By this time it had stopped raining
so after lunch Derek and I took a very grateful Echo in the dinghy for a
run ashore. Later Derek and I explored
around the small islands and found a narrow passage to the original bay and saw
three small black bears on the beach.
Back on board we finished the pork pie before retiring.
June 9th
Klaskino Anchorage to Columbia Cove 23
miles Day 21
We were up
at 0600 as Pat wanted to see some bears, but the only one she saw was a large
one as we were leaving Klaskino
Inlet. There was no wind but the sky was
clear and the morning light beautiful.
We motored out and around Brooks Peninsula which we achieved by 1030,
all the time admiring the grandeur of the very large Provincial Park. As we eased off around the headland Pat
spotted some whales spurting far off. We
hoisted the mainsail and had a great sail south into Columbia Cove where we
anchored at 1300. After lunch we took
the dinghy ashore and hiked a well marked (with marine flotsam) but torturous
trail to a beautiful sandy beach that we had passed that morning. Echo had a great time racing around,
especially with one of my rubber boots, but we all very much appreciated the beauty
of the bay. Three kayakers who were
camped at the far end walked up and chattered and asked us if we had any coffee
or caffeine drinks to spare which we thought was a bit of a cheek, but we said
that if the wished to kayak around to our bay we would see what we had to spare
once back on board. Our return on the
trail seemed easier than outward but we were glad to reach the dinghy even
though it was high and dry. Gusts of wind
15-20 knots were blowing down the steep hills which made us a little anxious
about the anchor holding, but we need not have worried. The kayaking friends duly turned up so we
gave them some coffee and Coca Colas.
The engine oil etc. was checked and we enjoyed a dinner of meat balls
and spaghetti before turning in at 2200 when the wind finally died down.
June 10th Columbia Cove to Kyuquot (Walter Cove) 18 miles Day 22
Wind was
still light so after a breakfast of bacon and pancakes we weighed anchor and motored out to take a look at Bunsby
Islands where Pat particularly was hoping to see sea otters. We anchored at 1100 in Scow Bay in the middle
of the Bunsby's and went looking for bears, and sea otters in the dingy but
unfortunately spotted neither. So up
anchor again and motored into Kyuquot Harbor arriving there at 1700. As we tried to anchor we were politely but
firmly told that we were not allowed to anchor in the bay because of all the
electrical cable lying on the sea bed, so we went alongside the substantial government
dock as directed. This being a 1st
Nations community was alcohol free (?) and everything seemed to be free because
nothing was open and there was very little in the way of facilities. I rowed over to Walter Cove Resort Dock and
there met a very friendly guy named Glen who kindly invited us to use their
showers and WiFi. In exchange he walked
round to “Nokomis” in the evening and whilst downing a few glasses of red wine
told us that he worked on a government sponsored projects and lived with his
family in Comox. Pat and Derek took the
opportunity to speak to Tacey on the phone on the dock.
June 11th Kyuqot to Hankin Cove via Fair Harbour 17
miles Day 23
Woke up to
heavy drizzle and not much wind so decided to go to Fair Harbour to top up with
fuel and fresh water as there seemed to none available in Kyuquote and then go
on to Hankin Cove. So after
breakfast we motored out through the
rocks and then up the Crowther Channel.
With the clouds hanging on the high hills and the narrow channel it
reminded us of Scotland, only warmer.
Arriving at Fair Harbour we decided to scout out the limited facilities
before docking, but when we did get alongside the fuel dock we were greeted by
a friendly girl called Gwen. She advised
us that we were the first sailboat to use their facility this year, but the
First Nation community that owned the dock had plans to expand the dock to
accommodate the growing number of fishermen who could access Fair Harbour by
road from Tahsis. After we filled up
with fuel and water, and sampled their ice cream we departed at 1226 and
motored up the picturesque Erstow Passage to Hankin Cove which turned out to be
a very quiet and protected anchorage.
The evening light on the shoreline was beautiful, enhanced by the moon
rising above the hills.
June 12th Hankin Cove to Nuchatlitz Islands, Esperanza
Inlet 33 miles Day 24
After a
cooked breakfast I managed to contact
Sandy on the borrowed satellite phone and we all sang “happy birthday to
her”. At 0930 we weighed anchor and
motored out of Hankin Cove hoping for a NW breeze outside as there were high
clouds around. It was not to be
unfortunately so we had to motor out of Kyuquot Sound via Clear Passage where
we found a SE breeze and W'ly swell, - not very pleasant. We finally set sail at 1400 and tacked
southward into Esperanza Inlet, making better headway as we were able to bear
away towards Nuchatlitz Islands through the rocky islets. Careful navigation was called for as we
threaded our way to another lovely protected anchorage at 1730 in the
Nuchatlitz Islands Marine Park. We rowed around the bay looking for bears but
only saw a seal who took a good look at us.
We investigated a nearby nearby tide pool where the water from the
adjoining bay flowed into our bay as the tide receded. Derek picked some oysters during his recce
ashore so we were able to dine on cooked oysters, rice and a great sauce. We spread Pat's canopy as we expected some
rain overnight and we admired the tranquility as the moon came up giving us
some fine photo opportunities.
June 13th
Nuchatlitz Islands to Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound 27 miles
Day 25
Up at 0630
under a bright blue sky with eagles flying around looking very grand. Decided
to delay breakfast so we could look around the islands. So we weighed anchor
and motored round to a nice beach where we dropped the anchor and rowed ashore,
much to the delight of Echo who enjoyed leaping through the tide pools. Back on board by 0900 and off at 0920 having
decided to take advantage of the WNW wind and sail down to Nootka Sound. With a double reef in the mainsail and full
genoa we rounded the outer channel red nun and and rocked and rolled our way
south in 10 ft swells and 25 knots of NW breeze. Derek and Mark enjoyed the ride but Pat, who
had to look after Echo was not so happy.
By 1300 we gybed around the Nootka Sound outer buoy and headed into the
sound much to the relief of Pat and Echo.
At 1445 we rounded the beautiful lighthouse and dropped anchor in
Friendly Cove. After a late lunch of
corned beef hash thanks to Pat, Mark took a grateful Echo to the beach. Later we went alongside the Doc, I visited
the Lighthouse Keeper and three Canadian Customs Officers, while Pat and Derek took Echo for a
good walk along the outer beach.
June 14th Friendly Cove to Hot Spring Cove 29 miles Day
26
0730 I tried
to send the e-mails with the photos I compiled for Sandy last night, but even
standing right outside the Lighthouse Keepers dwelling I had no luck logging
into his WiFi. On return to the boat Pat
and Derek were having discussion on where to sail today. The forecast advised a break in the strong NW
winds so in deference to Pat it was decided to sail/ motor to Hot Spring
Cove. We also wanted to continue down
the coast fairly smartish because we had been told that the winds would swing
round to SE within the next five days.
So we set off at 0900 to find a light
NW breeze outside and a moderate W'ly swell rolling in. So it was on with the engine and full genoa
as we gently made our way past Estivan Point Lighthouse. At 1500 we finally entered Hot Spring
Cove and anchored just past the dock as it was fully occupied with yachts we
had met in Friendly Cove who were circumnavigating Vancouver Island with the
owners instructing paying crews on the general art of seamanship. Float planes
kept arriving during the afternoon from nearby Torfino shepherding tourists to
and from the Hot Springs. We spent a
quiet evening, phoned Sandy and Kerry on the Sat phone and retired early to bed
after a fine dinner of spaghetti and meal balls with a fine sauce that Pat had
made.
June 15th Hot Spring Cove to Bacchante Bay 11 miles Day
27
After a
great breakfast of pancakes and bacon thanks to Derek we motored up to the
Government Dock and chatted to “NorthWest Passage” and “Summer Solace”, two of
the instructor vessels we had met in Friendly Cove. Pat and I departed on foot for the hot
springs that were 0.75 miles along a very well maintained boardwalk with many
of the boards having boat names engraved on them. On arrival at the springs we found only two
other couples there, noting that one lady had her face fully made up !! WE enjoyed the bathe and shower in the quite
warm hot water and returned to the dock at 1100. After waiting for a float plane and the two
yachts to clear the dock we set off and sailed around to Sydney Inlet then east
into Shelter Inlet where Pat and Derek enjoyed ten minutes sitting on deck
chairs on the foredeck before a shower of rain drove then off. We entered secluded Bacchante Bay through a
narrow channel and anchored at 1520.
Pat's canopy was then deployed just before a heavy shower came through. The rain soon cleared though revealing very
large schools of small fish all around the head of the bay. The water was dark
one minute and then silver as they turned around and swam near the
surface. The seals and eagles were
having a fine time feeding on them and we had never seen such a spectacle
before.
June 16th Bacchante Bay to Port of Tofino 19 miles Day
28
We were all
up at 0630 to admire the sunrise and the light on the beautiful bay. The small fish seemed even more numerous than
yesterday evening. After breakfast we
struck the canopy and motored out of the bay.
It was low water as we entered the very narrow and twisty channel into
Sulphur Passage and then motor sailed down the Clayoquot Sound. Approaching Tofino we found the buoyage
reversed and navigated with caution due to the tortuous channel and 4-5 knot
favourable current. The mainsail was
lowered as we neared Tofino Harbour and then found the Public Dock very full,
mainly with fishing boats. We were fortunate
to find the only vacant outside berth which allowed to moor without too much
trouble in the 3-4 knot current. We
bought fresh prawns from a fishing boat that had been following us into Tofino
and then walked into town to see what it had to offer. We were pleasantly surprised by the downtown
area compared to the port area, and shopped for groceries, beers and ice. Later we ventured back into town and had a
great meal at Schooners Restaurant that had been recommended to us.
June 17th
Port of Tofino to Adventure Cove, Lemmens Inlet
3 miles Day 29
Woke early
and took a shower in the only facility available on the dock and then had
coffee while catching up on the WiFi messages.
We agreed to sail at 1200 allowing Pat and Derek to visit the Vickers
Gallery while I did the laundry. Before
departing Tofino we motored round to the fuel dock and topped up with diesel
and fresh water. From there to Lemmens
Inlet it was just three miles but we had to motor because the twisting
channel. We anchored in Adventure Cove
at 1224 and to our horror we found
another yacht anchored there! However
it was a very pleasant and quiet bay so Derek, Echo and I went ashore to
explore.
Otherwise it
was “make & mend” in the afternoon for Derek, while Pat and I read our
books. Cocktails at happy hour were
followed by a delicious meal of prawns purchased in Tofino. The wind died down at 2100 and we turned in
soon after.
June 18th Adventure Cove to Cataract Cove, Barclay
Sound 40 miles Day 30
As we had
quite a long way planned for today and to take advantage of a favourable ebb
tide we were up at 0500 and departed our sheltered anchorage at 0540. We threaded our way through the many islands
guarding Tofino Harbour, quite thankful to leave as we were not too impressed
with the dock facilities. Once clear of
the outer point we set course for Ucluelet in light winds so we had to motor
down the coast. As we approached the
entrance of Ucluelet at 1100 we decided to bypass this busy port, especially as
we had done our shopping in Tofino.
Having cleared the islands off Ucluelet by 1130 we set the genoa and
mainsail and had a very pleasant sail up the Loudown Channel, north of the
Broken Islands, until we reached our destination of Cataract Cove. The anchorage proved tricky due the sharply
varying depths, but we decided against stern tying to the shore and Derek did a
good job finding a secure spot. Once
settled, Derek and I took Echo in the dinghy up the Cataract Creek until we had
to wade and then hike up a torturous trail through a medieval jungle until we
could see the waterfall. We returned
tired and went to bed early after Pat's fine meal of noodles, cabbage and
hamburger meat.
June 19th Cataract Cove to Jacques-Jarvis Lagoon 10 miles Day
31
We woke to
the sound of rain, which my notes incorrectly state was the first time of the
whole voyage! It was certainly the first
time it rained so hard and all day so Pat's canopy once again came to the
rescue. Derek took Echo for a walk
ashore and collected some oysters, - soaked but a hero! Pat and I read books and listened to the rain
and managed a deckhead survey off and on.
We had planned to go to another anchorage but it was not until early
evening that the rain eased up and we had second thoughts of moving on. I rowed Echo ashore again while Derek
prepared a fine meal of enchiladas.
Since we thought our destination was just 4 miles we set off after the
meal but soon found out that Jacques-Jarvis Lagoon was 10 miles away. Consequently it was almost dark by the time
we arrived and despite Pat and my signals from the bow to Derek at the helm we
missed the entrance first time, - fortunately not seriously. Once inside we did not venture far into the
bay and anchored as soon as were found a spot, - no other boats being around.
June 20th Jaques-Jarvis Lagoon to Effingham Bay 8 miles Day
32
As we were
not planning to go far today we had a leisurely breakfast and then Derek rowed
around the bay before setting off at 1030.
Once clear of the bay we se sail and sailed all the way to Effingham
Bay, tacking for the final two miles or so.
The weather was dry and clear with a moderate breeze out of the
west. On arrival at our planned
anchorage we found another vessel anchored just where we wanted to be. So it took us until 1330 to anchor deploying
a kedge anchor to ensure we kept a safe distance off the beach.
After a lunch of sannies Derek, Echo and I went ashore to hike the trail
to Mearze Bluff where we met two Pacific Rim National Park Agents who informed
us that no dogs were allowed in the Park due to the danger of attracting wolves
that were evidently around. However,
since we were unaware of this new regulation they let us pass provided we kept
Echo on a leash. It took us 30 minutes to hike the torturous trail while we
kept our eyes and ears open for wolves.
Echo enjoyed the beach at the end of the trail and we then returned to
“Nokomis” without incident. Dinner consisted of oysters in a soup followed by
rambutan and pineapple.
June 21st Effingham Bay to Bamfield Bay 10 miles Day
33
Up at 0700
and I took Echo ashore. However, she
seemed very unsettled and soon returned to the dinghy, - was it the presence of
wolves we asked ourselves! Breakfast of bacon and eggs soon made us forget the
situation and then after recovering both anchors we were off at 0900. Derek tried his hand at fishing for an hour
and a half as we motored slowly in the Pacific swell. Being unsuccessful unfortunately we then had
a pleasant sail into Bamfield Bay. Once
inside we stopped off at the dock alongside the store where we purchased ice
and some stores before transferring to the well maintained Port Authority Dock
further down the bay. After lunch I walked along the boardwalk to try and find
a WiFi connection so I could contact Sandy, but when I finally did talk to her
she was upset that I hadn't spoken to her for six days. Meanwhile Pat, Derek and Echo walked the
trail over to Brady Beach which turned out to be further than advised in the
cruising guide. On their return we
changed the jib for the No 1 genoa as it was estimated that we would have
following winds in the Juan de Fuca Strait.
We dined on sausages for dinner and then turned in early as we had set
an estimated departure of 0500.
June 22nd Bamfield Bay to Port Renfrew 33 miles Day
34
The alarm
somewhere woke us at 0500 as we faced a long day to get to Port Renfrew at a
decenthour. We cast off at 0530 and
rounded Beale Point point shortly thereafter.
Unfortunately there was very little wind so we had to motor most of the
way and only when we entered Port Renfrew Bay were we able to sail the last few
miles. With only a private marina at the
head of the bay mainly for fishing boats we had to anchor partially in the lee
of the dock, but were happy to watch the activity there. Not long after we were settling in friends of
Derk and Pat's from South Whidbey YC came by from their daily fishing
expedition. On board were Tom
(Commodore) Russ, Bern and Bob. They
told us they had had another successful day's fishing (one halibut and two salmon per person per day) and invited us to join them for dinner at the
lodge and share some of their catch. So
after cocktails on board we rowed ashore at 1900 and enjoyed a fine meal that
was cooked by the lodge staff, washed down by some excellent beers. We thanked the guys who explained to us that
in the five days they went fishing they caught enough to pay foe the entire
trip if one estimated the price of their catch at retail prices. We returned on board at 2030 happy campers.
June 23rd Port Renfrew to Sooke Harbour 43 miles Day
35
Up at 0700
and, after taking Echo for a run ashore, hoisted the dinghy on board and
weighed anchor at 0800. Fog was prevalent
in the bay but showed signs of clearing in a fresh W'ly breeze. We motored out of the bay, turned into the
Juan de Fuca Strait and set the foresail.
Initially it was difficult to sail on our intended track but predictably
the wind filled in by 1100 and we were able to run down the coast under a WNW
20 knot breeze. After locating the
tricky entrance to Sooke Harbour and taking care to follow the leading marks we
managed to stay off the mud banks guarding the Outer Harbour. Derek then deftly navigated our way into the
Inner Harbour as we had been assured of a berth at Sunny Shores Marina, that
also had the only fuel service in Sooke.
On approaching the marina in a
fresh onshore breeze we were not happy with the structure of the slips nor the
depth of water so we turned around and Derek navigated us out of the narrow
channel again into the Outer Harbour where we went alongside a vacant slip at
at Sooke Harbour Marina. This slip
turned out to be already reserved so we were only able to stay there a short
time, long enough though for me to off load some of my kit which would make it
easier in the morning when I would say good bye to Pat and Derek. My decision to leave “Nokomis” at Sooke was
to arrive home the same day that our two grandsons were arriving from
California and I was of course anxious to see them. So we left the slip at the marina and
anchored behind the spit which made Echo happy and we were able to watch the
various vessels go by.
June 24th In Sooke Harbour Day
36
With the
marina office not opening until 0900 where they were kindly holding my kit bag,
there was no immediate rush to leave. So
we had a grand breakfast after which I said fond farewell to Pat. Derek then rowed me ashore with the remainder
of my kit where I thanked him for the wonderful time on board and bade him good
bye and safe passage home. The manager
of the marina was very friendly and helpful as he then let me use their public
shower facility and gave me the time table for the buses into Victoria. So I caught the 1040 bus that eventually reached downtown Victoria
at 1215 all for the price of C$2.50. It
was very hot there and full of tourists, but I was thankfully able to check my
heavy bags in at the Victoria Clipper Terminus after which I had a welcomed
beer and a BLT at a nearby hotel. In the
afternoon I looked around the shops to try and find a sea otter sculpture as
Pat was so keen on seeing them on our trip.
Unfortunately I could only find one quite small one as most of the shops
seemed to be full of tourist junk.
Later I caught the ferry to Seattle which I found to be very pleasant
with on board service similar to that on aircrafts and on arrival at Seattle I
just managed to catch the 2205 ferry to Bainbridge where Sandy met me and I was
able to say good night to our elder grandson, Jack before he too fell asleep
like his younger brother Jonas A
most memorable and worthwhile voyage, one less item on my bucket Thanks Derek and Pat for making this happen
